Sunday, November 27, 2005
Puerto Rico Travel Report - San Juan, Guanica, Ponce, La Parguera, Arecibo Observatory & Rincon
Overview:
If you're planning to visit the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico, then you need to know (unless you knew already) that Puerto Rico (PR) is a commonwealth of the US, and its people US citizens.
Here's some info on PR based on our recent visit:
Our Itinerary:
* Fri - landed in San Juan late afternoon, picked up rental car, checked into the Marriott Courtyard, and had a romantic dinner right on the beach under palm trees and listening to gently crashing waves.
* Sat - drove to the El Yunque tropical forest, hiked to & had a bath under the La Mina falls.
* Sun - checked out the San Felipe del Morro fort, old San Juan and then drove across the impressive & fabulously green La Cordillera Central mountain range to Guanica in South West PR, and checked into the Copamarina Resort.
* Mon - pool, massage & took a night boat ride to check out the bioluminescent bay in La Parguera.
* Tue - took the ferry to Guilligan's Island, and snorkelled right off the beach in the shallow bay.
* Wed - saw the Arecibo observatory, and drove along Rt. 111 - my most challenging drive with hairpin bends every 10-15 secs with "in-bends" in between.
* Thu - drove to Rincon, kayaked to Guilligan's Island & snorkelled, finally had a great local cuisine Thanksgiving dinner.
* Fri - lay in the cabanas by the ocean, swam in the pool, and flew back home.
Amazing Moments/Great Experiences:
* driving on Rt 111 - hair-raising hairpin bends & some amazing mountain/valley views
* kayaking across Guanica bay to Guilligan's island & snorkeling off its beach
* taking a bath under the La Mina falls
Fast Facts
Money:
* PR is part of the US - so, the currency is the US$.
* You can use your credit card for most things in San Juan and bigger cities, but be ready with cash at small shops and out of the way towns.
* The great thing is that there are ATMs nearly in every town. So, if you don't have cash, use the ATM, although finding anything is tough given the "excellent" directions.
* Recommend carrying some cash and using credit cards for big purchases or when paying your hotel bill.
Driving:
* If you're going to stay in San Juan only, then you could possibly do without a car. If you do rent a car, think about parking costs within the city. Drivers within the city are rash just like any other city. Lack of appropriate signage and road conditions make it more dicey than on the mainland.
* Definitely get insurance coverage from the rental agency from a peace of mind standpoint, if you're driving in the San Juan area.
* If driving out of San Juan, you don't really need the same insurance coverage. Your credit card should cover collision - which is sufficient. Please confirm this before you leave.
* Another option is to check with insurance company, to see what kind of coverage they provide when you travel yo PR.
Miscellaneous:
* US Green Card holders: Please take your passport & green cards. Outbound from the mainland is no problem at all. However, Immigration will want to see them before you board the plane back.
San Juan:
* Well this is the main city, and there is a lot to do if you want to.
* San Juan has multiple communities like any other city, like Condado, Isla Verde & old San Juan.
* Old San Juan is quaint, with tons of shopping and eateries.
* Some other places to check out include the El Morro, San Felipe Castle with spectacular views (watch the video inside the compound to get acquainted with the fort & island's history), La Princesa promenade, San Jose church, the blue flag Carolina beach, etc, etc.
* Of course, you can decide to not do any of the sightseeing - just hang out on the hotel beach in a hammock maybe with a drink in hand.
El Yunque:
* If you're going to be only in the San Juan area, definitely visit the only tropical rain forest in the US, El Yunque caribbean national forest. If you're going to the South or the central part of the island, you'll enjoy better experiences, although they may not be as well organized as it it here.
* There is not much at the El Portal Tropical Forest center, which charges a $3 entry fee, although the fee goes towards maintaining park. You will get a detailed park map though.
* You can simply drive around in the park, stopping at the La Coca falls, Yokahu viewing tower, etc. There is really one road - so you can't get lost.
* There is some decent hiking, including to the La Mina falls where you can take a dip in the natural pool (take a change of clothes, a snack, and definitely enough water), or even stand under the falls themselves - quite a cool experience. Its a 30min trip each way, so plan accordingly.
La Coca falls
La Mina falls
El Yunque's tropical rain forest among mountaineous terrain
Guanica:
* Southwest PR's coastline is on the Carribbean Sea - so no crashing waves as witnessed in the areas bordering the Atlantic ocean. Guanica is located on a tranquil & huge bay.
* Cana Gorda is a well known public beach in this seaside town. It is maintained well, but whether you like a beach on a bay or prefer crashing waves is a matter of personal preference.
* Guillian's island is a protected island off the coast of Guanica, reachable by a ferry that runs every 45 mins from the Copamarina resort and nearby dock. It charges $6 for a roundtrip ride - you pay cash getting on board. The island itself has nothing other than picnic tables & restrooms. So, take your own food, water, etc. But you can snorkel right off the beach - the water is shallow since this is part of the bay too. We saw 11 types of fish over 2 days (8 on the first trip itself), and we ventured maybe 3-5ft into the water. You'll see fish in the water sitting on the dock itself. Kayaking over to the island is a great experience - try it. It will only take 15mins outbound and less inbound due to ocean currents & wind.
Copamarina's view of Guanica bay
Ways to relax by the water
Pool views
The cabanas were very comfortable - we loved lazing in them after breakfast
Guilligan's island - you can wade from one side to the other
Mangroves on Guilligan's island
A great/easy place to snorkel in the shade of the mangroves - just stand in the water actually...
Mainland while kayaking back from Guilligan's island
La Parguera:
* We visited La Parguera only in the night. It supposedly is home to a fabulous bay with tiny islands with beaches and canals all around. Its a tiny village, but the "Wall" famous for its scuba diving & snorkeling is closest to PR here.
* What it is well-known for is its bioluminiscent bay. We took a boat ride for $5 on one of Johnny Boats'. The ride itself is worth it - it was a anamazing ride in the night with hardly any light around. But, the great part started when the skipper's "assistant" jumped into the water and started swimming/moving around. The water glittered, rather glimmered with tiny dots of light. It was beautiful in the night sky. Evene with a generous tip to the assistant, the trip is absolutely worth it.
* Getting to Johnny Boats' (yes its spelled that way) is tricky at best, since signs are non-existent and you have to ask around. Take Rt 116 West from Guanica towards La Parguera of course. You can get 116 from Rt 2 West. Take Rt 304 South, and go all the way to the end, where you come to a T. Take a left and park in the parking lot by the water. Walk back to the T, and make a left into the plaza. You'll see a Johnny Boats' stand right in front of you. Go around 7pm, tours start from 7:30pm.
* There are 2 pretty decent "paradores" if you go right at the T (or simply walk back from from the parking area). One is Villa Parguera - the food is ok but expensive. The other one is Posada Porlamar, which has an attached restaurant called La Pared. The place doesn't look much at night, but the food is excellent (yes, trust us on this), although a bit pricey (totally worth it though). Its right on the water, so during the day it should be nice to sit out.
Ponce:
* The 2nd largest city after San Juan is really not that big.
* The main square is pretty nice with fountains, the Parque de Bombas. You can park right at the square, which lets you walk around the place.
* You could check out the La Guancha seaside boardwalk south of the city. Take Rt 12 South from Rt 52/2 to get it from near the square.
* Castillo Seralles is beautifully decorated with lights, and looks really nice in the night from the town square. I believe its a nice place to visit.
* Its recommended to visit Hacienda Buena Vista also, which is just north west of Ponce.
Ponce square lit up
Pretty neat combination of lights
Nice detail
Quaint architecture - actual building is much better than this snap
Arecibo Observatory:
* Getting to the Arecibo observatory is a lot of fun in itself (although it can be frustrating due to lack of road signs), if you're driving of course.
* From San Juan, take Rt 22 West to 129 South, 134 South/East to 635 East to 625 South. This is the fastest route.
* From the South, take Rt 10 North from Ponce/Rt 52 to Adjuntas. You'll suddenly find the expressway ends, and you have to turn left sharply. Immediately get onto Rt 123 North which is not an expressway. They're still working on it from Adjuntas to Utuado. If you've gone into Adjuntas you're going the wrong way. After a challenging drive on 123 North along a narrow road fraught with hairpin bends, you come to Utuado. Make sure you get back onto Rt 10 North there, by making a left when you reach the valley bottom. Take Rt 10 North all the way till you make a left onto Rt 652 West. Take Rt 635 South to 625 South all the way to the observatory.
* When you see it first, it looks awesome - this huge bowl with the massive receiver hanging above it. Just like in the James Bond movie.
* There is a show about life at the observatory and what goes on behind the scenes every 15mins or so after 11am. They alternate between English & Spanish every show I think.
* While coming back to the South West, you can try the the alternate route to get back on Rt 10 South. Get to Rt 111 using Rt 129, and then start the climb down to Rt 10 - you'll meet Rt 10 South in Utuado. Take Rt 123 South this time back (since Rt 10 is being built from here upto Adjuntas), getting back onto Rt 10 South @ Adjuntas.
Rincon:
* A sleepy little town on the west coast, although the ocean here is far from sleepy.
* A beautiful beach is Steps beach (apparently you can snorkel right on the beach in summer). Its too rough in winter or during storms. Its off Rt 413, which you can get to again from Rt 2 (goes around the coast of the entire western half of PR).
* The is a great stretch of sand if you continue on 413 from Steps beach to the Desecheo dive shop. Then go right at the forsk in the road. At the top of the hill make left just before the bakery all the way down to the beach. There is a small restaurant with a hotel right on the beach - nice views of Desecheo island and some surfing.
* You get views of Desecheo island from all along the beaches in Rincon. The island is closed to visitors, but dive companies take you there for scuba rides - apparently a great place for that. They don't offer snorkel trips there anymore from a value for money standpoint.
Wrapup:
Highly recommended places that I didn't cover:
* Luquillo beach and Fajardo to the North East
* Culebra & Viques islands East of the main island - with apparently amazing beaches, snorkeling and bioluminiscent bays
* The north west coast/part of the island
* Town of Aguadilla and Isabel beach to the North West
Personally I think PR is way over-priced. But then, not having visited too many other Carribbean countries/islands, that may be an unfair statement. There is also the view (which I agree with) that the Carribean is the poor man's alternative to Hawaii (I personally highly recommend the garden isle of Kauai, but have been told that Maui is amazing too, but so are all the other islands - each in their own way).
If you're planning to visit the Caribbean island of Puerto Rico, then you need to know (unless you knew already) that Puerto Rico (PR) is a commonwealth of the US, and its people US citizens.
Here's some info on PR based on our recent visit:
Our Itinerary:
* Fri - landed in San Juan late afternoon, picked up rental car, checked into the Marriott Courtyard, and had a romantic dinner right on the beach under palm trees and listening to gently crashing waves.
* Sat - drove to the El Yunque tropical forest, hiked to & had a bath under the La Mina falls.
* Sun - checked out the San Felipe del Morro fort, old San Juan and then drove across the impressive & fabulously green La Cordillera Central mountain range to Guanica in South West PR, and checked into the Copamarina Resort.
* Mon - pool, massage & took a night boat ride to check out the bioluminescent bay in La Parguera.
* Tue - took the ferry to Guilligan's Island, and snorkelled right off the beach in the shallow bay.
* Wed - saw the Arecibo observatory, and drove along Rt. 111 - my most challenging drive with hairpin bends every 10-15 secs with "in-bends" in between.
* Thu - drove to Rincon, kayaked to Guilligan's Island & snorkelled, finally had a great local cuisine Thanksgiving dinner.
* Fri - lay in the cabanas by the ocean, swam in the pool, and flew back home.
Amazing Moments/Great Experiences:
* driving on Rt 111 - hair-raising hairpin bends & some amazing mountain/valley views
* kayaking across Guanica bay to Guilligan's island & snorkeling off its beach
* taking a bath under the La Mina falls
Fast Facts
Money:
* PR is part of the US - so, the currency is the US$.
* You can use your credit card for most things in San Juan and bigger cities, but be ready with cash at small shops and out of the way towns.
* The great thing is that there are ATMs nearly in every town. So, if you don't have cash, use the ATM, although finding anything is tough given the "excellent" directions.
* Recommend carrying some cash and using credit cards for big purchases or when paying your hotel bill.
Driving:
* If you're going to stay in San Juan only, then you could possibly do without a car. If you do rent a car, think about parking costs within the city. Drivers within the city are rash just like any other city. Lack of appropriate signage and road conditions make it more dicey than on the mainland.
* Definitely get insurance coverage from the rental agency from a peace of mind standpoint, if you're driving in the San Juan area.
* If driving out of San Juan, you don't really need the same insurance coverage. Your credit card should cover collision - which is sufficient. Please confirm this before you leave.
* Another option is to check with insurance company, to see what kind of coverage they provide when you travel yo PR.
Miscellaneous:
* US Green Card holders: Please take your passport & green cards. Outbound from the mainland is no problem at all. However, Immigration will want to see them before you board the plane back.
San Juan:
* Well this is the main city, and there is a lot to do if you want to.
* San Juan has multiple communities like any other city, like Condado, Isla Verde & old San Juan.
* Old San Juan is quaint, with tons of shopping and eateries.
* Some other places to check out include the El Morro, San Felipe Castle with spectacular views (watch the video inside the compound to get acquainted with the fort & island's history), La Princesa promenade, San Jose church, the blue flag Carolina beach, etc, etc.
* Of course, you can decide to not do any of the sightseeing - just hang out on the hotel beach in a hammock maybe with a drink in hand.
El Yunque:
* If you're going to be only in the San Juan area, definitely visit the only tropical rain forest in the US, El Yunque caribbean national forest. If you're going to the South or the central part of the island, you'll enjoy better experiences, although they may not be as well organized as it it here.
* There is not much at the El Portal Tropical Forest center, which charges a $3 entry fee, although the fee goes towards maintaining park. You will get a detailed park map though.
* You can simply drive around in the park, stopping at the La Coca falls, Yokahu viewing tower, etc. There is really one road - so you can't get lost.
* There is some decent hiking, including to the La Mina falls where you can take a dip in the natural pool (take a change of clothes, a snack, and definitely enough water), or even stand under the falls themselves - quite a cool experience. Its a 30min trip each way, so plan accordingly.
La Coca falls
La Mina falls
El Yunque's tropical rain forest among mountaineous terrain
Guanica:
* Southwest PR's coastline is on the Carribbean Sea - so no crashing waves as witnessed in the areas bordering the Atlantic ocean. Guanica is located on a tranquil & huge bay.
* Cana Gorda is a well known public beach in this seaside town. It is maintained well, but whether you like a beach on a bay or prefer crashing waves is a matter of personal preference.
* Guillian's island is a protected island off the coast of Guanica, reachable by a ferry that runs every 45 mins from the Copamarina resort and nearby dock. It charges $6 for a roundtrip ride - you pay cash getting on board. The island itself has nothing other than picnic tables & restrooms. So, take your own food, water, etc. But you can snorkel right off the beach - the water is shallow since this is part of the bay too. We saw 11 types of fish over 2 days (8 on the first trip itself), and we ventured maybe 3-5ft into the water. You'll see fish in the water sitting on the dock itself. Kayaking over to the island is a great experience - try it. It will only take 15mins outbound and less inbound due to ocean currents & wind.
Copamarina's view of Guanica bay
Ways to relax by the water
Pool views
The cabanas were very comfortable - we loved lazing in them after breakfast
Guilligan's island - you can wade from one side to the other
Mangroves on Guilligan's island
A great/easy place to snorkel in the shade of the mangroves - just stand in the water actually...
Mainland while kayaking back from Guilligan's island
La Parguera:
* We visited La Parguera only in the night. It supposedly is home to a fabulous bay with tiny islands with beaches and canals all around. Its a tiny village, but the "Wall" famous for its scuba diving & snorkeling is closest to PR here.
* What it is well-known for is its bioluminiscent bay. We took a boat ride for $5 on one of Johnny Boats'. The ride itself is worth it - it was a anamazing ride in the night with hardly any light around. But, the great part started when the skipper's "assistant" jumped into the water and started swimming/moving around. The water glittered, rather glimmered with tiny dots of light. It was beautiful in the night sky. Evene with a generous tip to the assistant, the trip is absolutely worth it.
* Getting to Johnny Boats' (yes its spelled that way) is tricky at best, since signs are non-existent and you have to ask around. Take Rt 116 West from Guanica towards La Parguera of course. You can get 116 from Rt 2 West. Take Rt 304 South, and go all the way to the end, where you come to a T. Take a left and park in the parking lot by the water. Walk back to the T, and make a left into the plaza. You'll see a Johnny Boats' stand right in front of you. Go around 7pm, tours start from 7:30pm.
* There are 2 pretty decent "paradores" if you go right at the T (or simply walk back from from the parking area). One is Villa Parguera - the food is ok but expensive. The other one is Posada Porlamar, which has an attached restaurant called La Pared. The place doesn't look much at night, but the food is excellent (yes, trust us on this), although a bit pricey (totally worth it though). Its right on the water, so during the day it should be nice to sit out.
Ponce:
* The 2nd largest city after San Juan is really not that big.
* The main square is pretty nice with fountains, the Parque de Bombas. You can park right at the square, which lets you walk around the place.
* You could check out the La Guancha seaside boardwalk south of the city. Take Rt 12 South from Rt 52/2 to get it from near the square.
* Castillo Seralles is beautifully decorated with lights, and looks really nice in the night from the town square. I believe its a nice place to visit.
* Its recommended to visit Hacienda Buena Vista also, which is just north west of Ponce.
Ponce square lit up
Pretty neat combination of lights
Nice detail
Quaint architecture - actual building is much better than this snap
Arecibo Observatory:
* Getting to the Arecibo observatory is a lot of fun in itself (although it can be frustrating due to lack of road signs), if you're driving of course.
* From San Juan, take Rt 22 West to 129 South, 134 South/East to 635 East to 625 South. This is the fastest route.
* From the South, take Rt 10 North from Ponce/Rt 52 to Adjuntas. You'll suddenly find the expressway ends, and you have to turn left sharply. Immediately get onto Rt 123 North which is not an expressway. They're still working on it from Adjuntas to Utuado. If you've gone into Adjuntas you're going the wrong way. After a challenging drive on 123 North along a narrow road fraught with hairpin bends, you come to Utuado. Make sure you get back onto Rt 10 North there, by making a left when you reach the valley bottom. Take Rt 10 North all the way till you make a left onto Rt 652 West. Take Rt 635 South to 625 South all the way to the observatory.
* When you see it first, it looks awesome - this huge bowl with the massive receiver hanging above it. Just like in the James Bond movie.
* There is a show about life at the observatory and what goes on behind the scenes every 15mins or so after 11am. They alternate between English & Spanish every show I think.
* While coming back to the South West, you can try the the alternate route to get back on Rt 10 South. Get to Rt 111 using Rt 129, and then start the climb down to Rt 10 - you'll meet Rt 10 South in Utuado. Take Rt 123 South this time back (since Rt 10 is being built from here upto Adjuntas), getting back onto Rt 10 South @ Adjuntas.
Rincon:
* A sleepy little town on the west coast, although the ocean here is far from sleepy.
* A beautiful beach is Steps beach (apparently you can snorkel right on the beach in summer). Its too rough in winter or during storms. Its off Rt 413, which you can get to again from Rt 2 (goes around the coast of the entire western half of PR).
* The is a great stretch of sand if you continue on 413 from Steps beach to the Desecheo dive shop. Then go right at the forsk in the road. At the top of the hill make left just before the bakery all the way down to the beach. There is a small restaurant with a hotel right on the beach - nice views of Desecheo island and some surfing.
* You get views of Desecheo island from all along the beaches in Rincon. The island is closed to visitors, but dive companies take you there for scuba rides - apparently a great place for that. They don't offer snorkel trips there anymore from a value for money standpoint.
Wrapup:
Highly recommended places that I didn't cover:
* Luquillo beach and Fajardo to the North East
* Culebra & Viques islands East of the main island - with apparently amazing beaches, snorkeling and bioluminiscent bays
* The north west coast/part of the island
* Town of Aguadilla and Isabel beach to the North West
Personally I think PR is way over-priced. But then, not having visited too many other Carribbean countries/islands, that may be an unfair statement. There is also the view (which I agree with) that the Carribean is the poor man's alternative to Hawaii (I personally highly recommend the garden isle of Kauai, but have been told that Maui is amazing too, but so are all the other islands - each in their own way).
