We've visited BC before; the Emerald Lake area in Yoho National Park. That was a phenomenal visit; the natural beauty (of 13,000 ft+ peaks, glacier fed turquoise green lakes, walking on the Athabasca glacier and driving on the Icefields Parkway, hiking alone to the bowl of a glacier) and wildlife experience (seeing a grizzly, black bears, mountain goats, big horned sheep, moose, a pika, stellers jays and other birds in the wild) of the Canadian Rockies absolutely mind blowing.
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Sun trying to peek through dense fog off Wild Pacific Trail in Ucluelet
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This time we headed to the BC coast. There are mountains here too, but its a very different ocean/mountain duet, rather than just the wild, massive, desolate Rockies. Vancouver island is remote and wild beyond the major cities of Victoria (which we didn't go to) and Nanaimo (which we used as a ferry base pass-through). The mountains on the island are breathtaking even through they're not as high as the Rockies, seemingly rising almost vertically. We sensed an ancient spirit on Vancouver island outside the 2 cities, probably the same one that the local Native Americans (First Nation tribes) are in tune with. The towns of Campbell River and Port McNeil are small, while Telegraph Cove is tiny (a rare, historic boardwalk village; you park as you enter town, and then walk all around a L shaped boardwalk for everything, and that's pretty much it). Alert Bay an Amerindian village on Cormorant island is quickly reachable by ferry from Port McNeil, and so is Sointula on Malcolm island (although we never made it to this latter island). Tofino, a small town on the west coast of the island, has an absolutely enchanting setting at the head of a peninsula, while Ucluelet is its lesser known, less busy cousin also on a peninsula, the two towns tied together by a stretch of straight road, beautiful empty beaches, and the Pacific Rim National Park.
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| Vancouver Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo on BC Ferries |
The reason why Vancouver is so popular came to light as our BC ferry left the Horseshoe Bay ferry terminal for Nanaimo. The views are breathtaking; the ocean/mountain duet starting its interplay right there. While Vancouver offers some similar incredible views, it's easy to be overwhelmed by the concrete and crowds of the 3rd largest city in Canada, and 2nd busiest port in North America that is still growing at an enormous pace. What Vancouver as a city has lost, it makes up for amply, and even more via what you can do within driving/ferry distance. The Sunshine Coast, Vancouver island, Southern Gulf islands, cruises to Alaska, Whistler, etc, etc.
What made our long ferry/drive to Port McNeil even more worthwhile was a chance meeting with Baxter, a Newfie mix with Lab and others (the Owner didn't know exactly, since she is the 7th or 8th owner; seems Baxter has a need to live life fully, his energy having driven prior owners crazy; he even jumped from a 3rd floor window onto a roof, and when they went to rescue him, he had a desire to dangle his head over the roof just because he was so kicked with life :)), while waiting for our ferry at Horseshoe Bay after we missed our reserved spot. The owner has him on a vegan diet, which was the first time I've heard dogs can be on. He doesn't look his 10 year age at all, although I was told that he's slowed down a bit :). It was wonderful to meet Baxter, an enriching experience for him and me, as he turned over to get a belly rub; seems a prize he shares rarely. I was honored.
[Recent update: A friend shared that switching dogs or cats to vegan is a horrible idea - Baxter's owner was aware of internal organ impact for cats, but thought dogs are fine with it; apparently not. I am sad, so glad I met him when I did.]
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| Sunset at Cluxewe Campground |
We didn't stay in Port McNeil; our main reason for coming all this way north was to see the Orcas and bald eagles. We stayed at the Cluxewe Resort, a campground right on Johnston Strait. Amazing experience to be on the water, even though we didn't camp there (stayed in an over the top expensive, small but mostly comfortable, well maintained cabin).
The wildlife in this part of the wild west is exotic. A black bear hurriedly ambled across the main road (Rt 19 that connects all the east coast towns/cities), just as we drove by Port McNeil (a jogger who was about 25ft away didn't seem fazed at all). The Orcas (read Killer Whales!, even though most eat fish) spend summers in Johnston Strait off the east coast of Vancouver island, with the Robson Bight having been reserved for them since that is their favorite haunt (no one is allowed there by land or water). We saw 2 fish eating matrilines (closely knit families) of these amazing creatures from the MV Lukwa, one of two boats owned/operated by the 1000 Places to See Before You Die recommended Stubbs-Island Whale Watching co.
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| Orcas off Telegraph Cove |
We also saw hump backed whales, humongous sea lions enjoying themselves in the water, harbor seals, hundreds or maybe thousands of birds including the awesome Common Murres on our rain drenched trip. Missed seeing any bald headed eagles, which was disappointing. Apparently the Universe had other plans. The next morning while sitting on our porch, my wife noticed a bald eagle on a tree next to the cabin. Incredible to be so close to one of these majestic birds of prey! As if that was not enough, we caught seemingly the same bird lording high over us on a fir tree, again by our cabin as we sat on some very comfortable driftwood on the pebble beach that evening. Seems there is a nest nearby, since two small ones hunt on the beach in the mornings. And then the same evening, while walking on a desolate part of the pebble beach to see some machinery that we'd spotted from the campgrounds, saw a black bear slowly ambling away from me. While walking back, spotted a blue heron hanging out on the water. What incredible and humbling experiences! Exactly what we'd hoped for and more.
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| Sea Lions off Telegraph Cove |
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| Harbor Seals |
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| Bald Eagle next to our Cluxewe cabin |
It was hard to leave Vancouver island, but I was cautiously optimistic about the weather and possible experiences at the Whistler Blackcomb ski area, our next destination. Its in the mountains, which seem to always “draw” us in a different way than does the ocean. Whistler was amazing, including the drive to it along the Sea to Sky highway that snakes along jaw dropping cliffs off Howe Sound, then turning inland through the mountains before reaching the ski resort that includes 3 lakes, 2 mountains, stunning scenery and 3 main villages, Whistler village being pedestrian only.
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| Whistler Peak - ride up on the open chair lift to the top is scary! |
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| On Sea to Sky Highway to Whistler |
Whistler has a distinct European charm about it, and for some reason is mostly run by Australians (the joke goes that Australia hosted their first winter Olympics in 2010 :)). Not having to drive was a blessing; walking around being so easy with the mountain air fresh and inviting. Our experiences are better captured through pictures (while the same can be said about our entire trip, more so here than others). My zip lining experience (including an inverted one on the last line), gondola and chair lift rides to 7000ft, old growth forests of douglas firs, western red cedars, and the surrounding snow covered peaks/vistas simply have to be experienced; even pictures cannot convey the beauty and soul satisfaction of being here.
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| Peak2peak gondola in Whistler Blackcomb |
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| Whistler to Blackcomb on Peak2peak |
We had intentionally planned an exotic vacation; what we landed up experiencing was what I had hoped for also, reconnecting with nature and freeing our spirits.
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| From the top of Whistler peak |
